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Updated: 09/01/2017 03:29:36PM

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Sue Wade

side dish

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Inside Boca Grande’s historic train depot The Loose Caboose restaurant feels cool, smells like sweet cream, and is as richly paneled as any Gilded Age waiting room — which it was until 1958, when the passenger train stopped running. Once the place started dishing up ice cream, Katharine Hepburn adored its chocolate; Laura Bush favors the toasted coconut.

Now, co-owner Blanche Boudreau is whipping up Indian pudding flavor for some Civil War reenactors, when the cellphone on the counter buzzes.

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