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Updated: 07/16/2014 08:00:02AM

‘What about the cilantro?’

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SUN PHOTO BY SUE WADE

Team Cilantro — daughter Geodarys, Dary Colom and cilantro, Mami Luz Toro, and server Fabiola Sigueñas.

SUN PHOTO BY SUE WADE

Puerto Rico’s unofficial national dish, mofongo, with shrimp and (of course) cilantro.

Sue Wade

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When Dary Colom’s mom went to work in Carolina, a beachfront town east of San Juan, Puerto Rico, Dary was in charge of cooking for her sisters and brother. Rice, with its tendency to burn, wasn’t exactly her strong suit then. The poor little tykes had to eat it anyhow. “Mami had me cook it! You have to eat it!” Dary insisted.

They all somehow survived. And when Dary came to the States, she drew the whole family along after her. Her Cilantro’s Restaurant in Port Charlotte now serves three kinds of rice, none of them the least bit burnt.

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